The Apron: A Step-by-Step Guide

What you'll need:

 * 1/2 yard of lining fabric

* 1 yard of face fabric

* Coordinating thread

* Scissors

* Measuring tape

* Straight pins

*Pencil or water-soluble pen

* Sewing machine

* Iron

Taking Measurements

Apron Panel Width
1) Measure the width of your hips. If you're wearing pants or a skirt you can use the side seams of the garment as a guide
2) Add 5 inches to this measurement to account for tucks and seam allowance. This measurement will become the width of the apron panel.
3) Divide this number in half to use for drafting the apron panel. We will call this half-width.

Apron Panel Length
1) Decide on the length of the apron panel. Measure from the waist down to the desired length.
2) Add 1 inch to account for seam allowance.

Apron Tie
1) Measure around your waist.
2) Add 32 inches to this length to account for a bow

Cutting the Apron Panels and Apron Tie

  

Drafting the Apron Panel Pattern onto the Lining Fabric:

1) Fold fabric in half a little more than the half-width of the apron panel.

2) Using the tape measure and pin, measure down the fold of the fabric to the apron panel length and make a small mark.

3) At this mark, measure across the width of the fabric, making a mark at the half-width.

4) Connect the two points together with a straight line.

5) From the end of this line draw a perpendicular line measuring the apron panel length.

6) The measurements and lines will form a rectangular shape.

7) To make the curved edge, use a cup or plate as a guide to draw the curve.

Cutting the Apron Panel from the Lining Fabric:

1) Cut out apron Panel along the guide lines that you have drawn.

Cutting the Apron Panel from Face Fabric
1) Fold face fabric to appropriate width.
2) Pin previously cut lining fabric on top, lining up the folded edges.
3) Cut out.

Cutting the Apron Tie
1) Cut apron tie 5 inches wide, using the calculated length.
**If your fabric is not long enough to accommodate the tie length, simply cut enough piece to add up to the calculated length.  Sew these pieces together to create one tie.**
 

After the previous steps, you should have cut 1 apron panel from the face fabric, 1 apron panel from the lining fabric, and 1 apron tie.

Sewing the Apron Panel

Joining Apron Panels:
1) Place apron panels on top of each other, right sides together.
2) Pin in place.
3) Starting in the right hand corner, sew down and around the curved edges.  End in the left hand corner, leaving the top straight edge of the piece un-sewn.

Notching Apron Panel:
1) Notch apron panel curves by cutting triangles into the seam allowance. This will make it easier when turning the piece right side out.
**Be careful not to cut into the sewn seam**

Turning Apron Panel:
1) Turn apron right side out.
2) Push the corners out so that they lay flat and smooth.
3) Iron entire panel flat.

Top Stitch Apron Panel:
1) Top stitch around all edges of the apron panel 1/8 inch from the edge.
** Top stitch the opening as well in preparation for the tucks**

Adding Tucks to the Apron Panel

Measuring Tuck Placement:
1) Measure 3 inches in frorm the side and place a pin.
2) From that mark measure 1 1/2 inches in and place a pin.
3) Continue this process until you have 3 to 4 pins in place. These pins will determine the placement of the tucks.
4) Repeat these steps on the other side of the apron.

Forming the Tucks:
1) Taking one at a time, fold the apron panel in half (face fabric together) where the pin in placed.
2) Pin this fold together
3) Sew next to this fold 1/4 inch from the fold.  Sew 1 1/2 inches down and backstitch.
4) Repeat these steps until all pin markers have been formed into tucks.

Ironing the Tucks:
1) Iron all tucks in one direction so that the folded edges of the tucks face inward.

Sewing the Apron Tie

Ironing the Apron Tie:
1) Iron the raw edges of the apron tie in 1/2 inch.
2) Iron the ends of the apron tie in 1/2 inch.

 3) Fold apron tie in half, matching up the folded edges and iron flat.

Attaching Apron Tie to Apron Panel:
1) Lay out the apron tie and open it so that the pressed in seam allowance in exsposed.
2) Line up the raw edge of the apron panel with the raw edge of the apron tie seam allowance.
3) Fold the apron tie back over so that the fold lines meet up.
4) Pin in place.

Top Stitch Apron Tie:
1) Now that everything is pinned together, top stitch the entire apron tie.
2) Start on the apron tie side where the folded edges meet. Sew 1/8 inch from the edge.

Finishing Touches:
1) Iron one last time and then bake some cookies!!!

Happy Sewing!
-Katie

Sewing Tips: Measurements

Measurements are not only the foundation for choosing patterns and correct sizing, but they are also the foundation for pattern making and should be taken accurately to insure a good fit. 

Measurement Preparation:
- When taking measurements, measure over a lightweight dress or slip wearing the same undergarments you will be wearing with the piece you're making.
- Tie a string or ribbon around your waist for a reference point as well. 

Measuring Tips:
- When measuring lengths, make sure the measuring tape is perpendicular to the floor
- When measuring widths around your body, make sure the measuring tape is parallel to the floor
- When measuring around your body, make sure the tape is comfortably close to body, but not tight. This will insure an accurate measurement.

Important measurements:
- Bust: Measure around the fullest part (holding measuring tape firmly but not tightly)
- Waist: Measure around smallest art of your waist (where the string is tied)
- Center front bodice length: Measure the center front from the base of the neck to the waistline
- Center back bodice length: Measure the center back from the base of the neck to the waistline
- Hips: Measure around the fullest part of your hips (including your bottom)
- Thighs: Measure around the fullest part of your thighs
- Skirt Length: Measure from waistline (or where waistband will be) to correct length.  Measure at center front, center back, right side and left side

Take these measurements down in notebook that you can keep on hand when you go shopping for patterns or when you are drafting your own. It saves time and will help you get a great fit!


Happy Sewing!

-Katie

Textile Tuesdays Present: Seersucker

With this wonderful heat wave that has swept through New York this past week, my mind couldn't help but wonder to the cooler fabrics of summer. One of my personal favorites is seesucker.

Usually made of 100% cotton, this woven sports a rippled or wrinkled appearance making it great for relaxed summer wear. The fabric ripples are created in the weaving process, called slack-tension weave.  The use of tightly woven, heavy-weight warp yarns and loosely woven light-weight weft and warp yarns created the unique texture of seersucker.

The weaving pattern creates a stripped or plaid design in the fabric.  The name seersucker originates from the Persian words for milk and sugar (shir or shekar) in reference to the smooth and bumpy texture. The rippled texture actually keeps the fabric from clinging to the skin and allows air flow between the skin and fabric to keep you nice and cool. Also, since it's already wrinkled, there is no need to iron before wearing, just get up and go. Seersucker is featured in children's clothing, suiting, shirts, skirts, pants, and shorts. 

 
So go with the summer time flow and whip up a couple of dresses or skirts to keep you cool this season!

Happy Sewing!
-Katie

Sewing Tools: Rulers

The Ruler Round-up!

3 rulers - 3 brands - 3 uses
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Each ruler has a specific use and works quite well in the mediums they've been designed for. So amp up your crafting with one of these nifty rulers and let the creativity begin!

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Ruler #1

See-Thru Dressmaker's Ruler

by: Dritz

Great for:
-Taking general measurements and gauging seam allowances
-Measuring and marking placement for buttons, buttonholes
-Measuring and marking spacing for pleats and tucks
-Drawing pattern guidelines-Makes a useful as a guide for rotary cutters

Specifications:
-15 inches long, 4 inches wide
-1/8 inch thick (its heavier weight makes it great for a cutting guide)
-Inches are marked along one side, Centimeters are marked along the other side
-Pre-measured slots run length of ruler to make quick and accurate markings

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Ruler #2

 Acrylic Ruler Coastal Colors

by: Fiskars

 

 Great for:
-Taking general measurements and gauging seam allowances
-Makes a useful as a guide for rotary cutters
-Marking and cutting quilting pieces

Specifications:
-18 inches long, 3 inches wide
-1/8 inch thick (its heavier weight makes it great for a cutting guide, but not too bulky to move around your cutting table easily)
-Marked with 1 inch grid lines and 1/4 inch lines run the length of the ruler (great for measuring quilting pieces)

**I love to use this one for all my rotary cutting needs**

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Ruler #3

B-85 C-Thru Ruler

by: C-THRU Ruler Company 

 

 Great for: 
-Pattern Making
-Drawing accurate straight lines
-Adding seam allowance with ease
-Taking accurate measurements

Specifications: 
-18 inches long, 3 inches wide
-1/8 inch grid lines
-Light weight design (easy to use, portable)

**My all time favorite**


Happy Sewing!
-Katie

Sewing Tips: Facts about Fabrics

Below is an excerpt from 150 Sewing Tips by Mary Johnson, printed in Woman's Day in 1962. I found this booklet in my grandmother's sewing library. Reading it not only conjured up memories of my grandmother, but reminded me of the legacy of this crafting tradition.

Facts about Fabrics

* Woolens are the easiest to handle, especially the firmly woven medium weights. They come folded wrong-side out, all ready or the pattern.

* Cottons are the next easiest. They are folded right-side out and when printed, or when the right and wrong sides are different, as in sateen, they must be re-folded wrong-side out, before pinning pattern.

* Tubular jersey and other knits are often manufactured with the right-side out, but sometimes come the other way around, so inspect them carefully before laying out the pattern.

* Some wools have nap, a surface finish on the right side that is smooth to the touch when brushed with the hand one way, rough when brushed the other. Use with nap smooth in a downward direction.

* Some cottons such as corduroy have a pile, smooth to the touch one way, rough the other. The smoothness is usually worn upward for clothing, directed down for household items.

* Synthetics, made in many imitations of natural fabrics, often have a nap or pile too, and they are used in exactly the same way as their natural counterparts are.

* When silk, rayon or synthetic velvet is used for clothing, the pile is usually worn upward for richer color and better wearing quality.  

* With upholstery velvets, the pile is placed downward. The tone is subtler and it is easier to clean.

* Some fabrics must be held taut during stitching, with one hand ahead of the needle, the other behind it. This applies to heavy coatings on which the presser foot tends to move the top layer and cause uneven ends at the bottom of the seam; to plaids so that the lines stay matched; to synthetics and to sheers like organza, no matter what their fiber content, to prevent puckering.

Have more questions about fabric? Stay tuned for Textile Tuesdays where we highlight a different fabric's make and use every week.

Sew on people!
-Katie

Machine Embroidery: Spark Stitch

I found some old sewing notes my grandmother made as she was learning machine embroidery on her Singer.  The complexity of these stitch patterns are amazing! Since her day, the cost to buy embroidered fabric is much lower and as a result the art of enhancing fabric with machine or hand embroidery has somewhat been lost.  So take a sewing lesson from my grandmother, Norma Joy, on the Spark Stitch.

Spark Stitch

Supply List:
-Fine silk or mercerized thread
-Heavy silk or mercerized thread
-Embroidery hoop
-Sewing machine
-Feed plate cover, or machine with feed adjustment

Threading Prep: The Spark Stitch is done with fine silk, or fine mercerized thread on the bobbin and heavy silk or heavy-duty mercerized thread on top.

Machine Prep: The bobbin, or lower tension is loose. The upper tension is normal or slightly tight. The feed of the sewing machine is dropped or a feed cover late is used. Remove the presser foot.

Fabric Prep: The design is stamped or drawn on the right side of the fabric. Place material in hoops. If following a a pattern is preferred select one recommended for braiding

Beginning Stitch: Insert hoops under needle and presser bar. Lower presser bar. Hold end of top thread, lower needle, and draw bobbin thread through to top

Spark Stitch: The work is guided about in an even circular motion while following the design. This is usually freehand work and is done on the right side of the garment.

I feel quite inspired to try this myself on some dish towels, or maybe some old denim cut-offs. It could be quite cute right?

Sew on people!
Katie

Sewing Tips: Your Sewing Machine

Below is an excerpt from 150 Sewing Tips by Mary Johnson, printed in Woman's Day in 1962. I found this booklet in my grandmother's sewing library. Reading it not only conjured up memories of my grandmother, but reminded me of the legacy of this crafting tradition.

You Sewing Machine

* If the thread breaks when you stitch, the machine is improperly threaded, you've inserted the needle improperly or you are using the wrong make needle.

* If the machine has been unused for some time, oil it in the tiny holes provided for that purpose. Stitch through cotton strips to absorb excess oil.

* Regulate length of machine stitching to suite fabric texture. For heavy coatings, 12 to 13 stitches to the inch; for medium-weight suiting, cotton or synthetics, 14 or 15; for sheers, 16 or 18.

* Use a medium-size machine needle for general garment making.

* If the stitches don't look right, check threading and bobbin. If the trouble still exists, consult the instruction book.

* You can improvise a seam guide with a strip of adhesive tape about 2" long. Place it straight up and down on the machine plate as far right of needle hole as width of seam allowance (usually 5/8"). When you stitch, bring raw edges of fabric up against tape edge.

* If your machine puckers some fabrics take the needle out of the shaft and roll is on fine sandpaper; or sew through the sandpaper without thread (abrasive side up to sand won't get into the works).

* If machine skips stitches on synthetics, especially tricots, change to a fine machine needle and nylon thread.

Let the good times roll and happy sewing!
-Katie

How do I decide on the right sewing machine?

Looking to invest in your first sewing machine? Or maybe you've been wanting to upgrade your old machine?

From personal experience and working with students of all skill levels, we have gathered quite a bit of information and recommendations concerning the purchase of a new machine and have prepared a checklist to guide you in your search.

Begin at the Beginning
Some personal questions to consider:
*What will you be using your new machine for? Home projects, garment construction, quilting, etc.?
*How often will you be using this machine? Occasionally for clothing repairs, every day to manufacture your ouwn clothing line
*Do you need to transport/move the machine often?
These questions will help you determine what machine functions you need to look for when reviewing the product details of the machines

Tried and True Brands
These names have been around for ages and still continue to produce quality products in varying price ranges.
Singer
Brother
Janome

Basic Machine Capabilities You Can't Live Without
Must have...
*Varying stitch functions including
   -Straight stitch with adjustable lengths
   -Zigzag stitch with adjustable widths and lengths
   -Blind Stitch for sewing trouser and skirt hems
*Free arm for sewing cuffs and sleeves
*Zipper foot for inserting zippers
*Buttonhole foot to guide you while sewing

Life is easier with...
*1-step buttonhole function (4-step buttonhole is okay, but a little more tricky to sew)
*Drop in bobbin
*Quick change presser feet or snap on presser feet
*Decorative or quilting stitches (fun, but not necessary)

Misconceptions
Price is not always an indicator of the machine's quality. Purchasing a high priced machine does not always mean it's the best one for you and your end use.

My suggestion... start off with the basics. As your skills develop and grow, you will get a better grasp of what you need from your machine and can reinvest in the purchase of a higher-functioning machine.

Computerized machines are not always best. They are push button friendly, but are quite a pain to fix especially of the electronic board decides to burn out.

My suggestion... the simpler, the better. The dials and switches of a basic machine are much easier to adjust and fix than an electronic board or touch screen panel that may burn out.

Let us know if you need help! Good luck shopping.

Bye.

Katie for SEW Moni