Textile Tuesdays Present: Organza

Organza is traditionally made of 100% silk, but is also created with synthetic filament yarns like polyester, nylon, acetate, and viscose. These filament fibers also give organza a slight resilience and resistance to being bent or folded making it perfect for billowy or structural garment/upholstery designs. Because of its looser weave, the fabric is light weight and has a transparent appearance. You can find them in any color, some with metallic threads, some embroidered, or some embossed.

Organza is created in the mills of China, India, France, Italy and the United States. Each mill boasts a specific type of organza. Chinese organza is mostly created with 100% silk. Indian and American organzas generally use synthetic fibers like polyester and nylon.  However, organza from France and Italy is a bit more sturdy with a blend of nylon and silk yarns.

Silk organza is commonly used in bridal wear and evening wear. Whereas synthetic organzas are used for everyday interior purposes like curtains and accent pillows. Synthetic organza, especially the embroidered, embossed, or metallic designs, has even made its way onto table settings as a layering cloth to bring drama, color, and life to receptions and dinner parties.

Speaking of dinner parties, I remember my grandmother wearing an organza pin-apron while preparing for a summer seafood dinner.  It was so beautiful and the use of organza made a common/functional item into something beautiful, beyond the confines of everyday duties like cooking and cleaning. She got quite a few compliments that night if I can remember correctly.

So don't be afraid to try new fabrics, it will not only challenge you as a sewer, but will also challenge your creativity and increase your inspiration as you work with a new medium.

Happy Sewing!

-Katie

Mexican Flavor

WARNING!! It is HOT HOT HOT outside in Brooklyn today.

I just came back from running with Katie (SEW Moni Designer) and Taru (SEW Moni Sewing Instructor) and I can't express how HOT we were, even while doing push ups in the shade. I secretly prayed for rain the whole time.

After sweating and doing one to many sumo wrestler lunges, I was left craving Pinche Tacos (in Ft. Greene) and an ice cold lemonade. The heat (and muscle burn) also reminded me of Mexico: fun, great food, margaritas, strapless dresses made from Mexican fabrics and dancing till dawn.

Above it just a taste of my day and maybe it will inspire you to A. Get a margarita or B. Head for the border.

XO

Monica!

July 4th has brought out the best in me.

1. It's made me realize that I often need a 4 day weekend
2. It's given me time to catch up on old movie classics that simply make me giggle, more than white wine
3. It's provided extra time to try new foods, such as risotto
4. It's reminded me that one can never have enough damask inspired fabric

Xo

Moni

Sewing Tips: Facts about Fabrics

Below is an excerpt from 150 Sewing Tips by Mary Johnson, printed in Woman's Day in 1962. I found this booklet in my grandmother's sewing library. Reading it not only conjured up memories of my grandmother, but reminded me of the legacy of this crafting tradition.

Facts about Fabrics

* Woolens are the easiest to handle, especially the firmly woven medium weights. They come folded wrong-side out, all ready or the pattern.

* Cottons are the next easiest. They are folded right-side out and when printed, or when the right and wrong sides are different, as in sateen, they must be re-folded wrong-side out, before pinning pattern.

* Tubular jersey and other knits are often manufactured with the right-side out, but sometimes come the other way around, so inspect them carefully before laying out the pattern.

* Some wools have nap, a surface finish on the right side that is smooth to the touch when brushed with the hand one way, rough when brushed the other. Use with nap smooth in a downward direction.

* Some cottons such as corduroy have a pile, smooth to the touch one way, rough the other. The smoothness is usually worn upward for clothing, directed down for household items.

* Synthetics, made in many imitations of natural fabrics, often have a nap or pile too, and they are used in exactly the same way as their natural counterparts are.

* When silk, rayon or synthetic velvet is used for clothing, the pile is usually worn upward for richer color and better wearing quality.  

* With upholstery velvets, the pile is placed downward. The tone is subtler and it is easier to clean.

* Some fabrics must be held taut during stitching, with one hand ahead of the needle, the other behind it. This applies to heavy coatings on which the presser foot tends to move the top layer and cause uneven ends at the bottom of the seam; to plaids so that the lines stay matched; to synthetics and to sheers like organza, no matter what their fiber content, to prevent puckering.

Have more questions about fabric? Stay tuned for Textile Tuesdays where we highlight a different fabric's make and use every week.

Sew on people!
-Katie

Machine Embroidery: Spark Stitch

I found some old sewing notes my grandmother made as she was learning machine embroidery on her Singer.  The complexity of these stitch patterns are amazing! Since her day, the cost to buy embroidered fabric is much lower and as a result the art of enhancing fabric with machine or hand embroidery has somewhat been lost.  So take a sewing lesson from my grandmother, Norma Joy, on the Spark Stitch.

Spark Stitch

Supply List:
-Fine silk or mercerized thread
-Heavy silk or mercerized thread
-Embroidery hoop
-Sewing machine
-Feed plate cover, or machine with feed adjustment

Threading Prep: The Spark Stitch is done with fine silk, or fine mercerized thread on the bobbin and heavy silk or heavy-duty mercerized thread on top.

Machine Prep: The bobbin, or lower tension is loose. The upper tension is normal or slightly tight. The feed of the sewing machine is dropped or a feed cover late is used. Remove the presser foot.

Fabric Prep: The design is stamped or drawn on the right side of the fabric. Place material in hoops. If following a a pattern is preferred select one recommended for braiding

Beginning Stitch: Insert hoops under needle and presser bar. Lower presser bar. Hold end of top thread, lower needle, and draw bobbin thread through to top

Spark Stitch: The work is guided about in an even circular motion while following the design. This is usually freehand work and is done on the right side of the garment.

I feel quite inspired to try this myself on some dish towels, or maybe some old denim cut-offs. It could be quite cute right?

Sew on people!
Katie

Meet our Newest Team Member!

 Isn't she a fox! We found her on Ebay only 4 days ago.

Now, it's time to get to work.

Xo

Moni

Sewing Tips: Your Sewing Machine

Below is an excerpt from 150 Sewing Tips by Mary Johnson, printed in Woman's Day in 1962. I found this booklet in my grandmother's sewing library. Reading it not only conjured up memories of my grandmother, but reminded me of the legacy of this crafting tradition.

You Sewing Machine

* If the thread breaks when you stitch, the machine is improperly threaded, you've inserted the needle improperly or you are using the wrong make needle.

* If the machine has been unused for some time, oil it in the tiny holes provided for that purpose. Stitch through cotton strips to absorb excess oil.

* Regulate length of machine stitching to suite fabric texture. For heavy coatings, 12 to 13 stitches to the inch; for medium-weight suiting, cotton or synthetics, 14 or 15; for sheers, 16 or 18.

* Use a medium-size machine needle for general garment making.

* If the stitches don't look right, check threading and bobbin. If the trouble still exists, consult the instruction book.

* You can improvise a seam guide with a strip of adhesive tape about 2" long. Place it straight up and down on the machine plate as far right of needle hole as width of seam allowance (usually 5/8"). When you stitch, bring raw edges of fabric up against tape edge.

* If your machine puckers some fabrics take the needle out of the shaft and roll is on fine sandpaper; or sew through the sandpaper without thread (abrasive side up to sand won't get into the works).

* If machine skips stitches on synthetics, especially tricots, change to a fine machine needle and nylon thread.

Let the good times roll and happy sewing!
-Katie

Sewing Cirlces: Then and Now

Researching the origins of sewing circles in the USA, I found the beginnings alongside the birth of our country.  Many started in churches, as those acted as the tight knit community centers of the day.  One sewing circle at  Ocean View Presbyterian Church in Delaware was formed in 1879 and served as a place of fellowship and education as well as a basis to fund mission work using handmade goods.  This particular sewing circle still stands as the oldest operating society in Delaware.

Many sewing circles served similar purposes and even branched into politics.  In an excerpt from Frederick Douglas and the Atlantic World, Douglas wrote a letter to the Lynn Anti-Slavery Sewing Circle in 1846 which shows an even greater social aspect a sewing circle can have.

During the 1950s and 1960s sewing circles took a turn toward the younger generation.  Girls would gather in each others homes to hand-sew doll clothing and discuss fund-raising projects for church or school.  Many served as a social club since completing projects took a back seat to gossip and eating snacks.

Today sewing circles are still found in churches branching now into community centers, home groups, and businesses that capitalize on sewing. I believe being part of a community is a beautiful thing and being able to share such a personal craft with one another in a group creates a place of endless possibilities. The sewing circle is not only a place to share useful information and inspiration about the craft but serves as a place to sharpen one's person and world views.

Why not start your own sewing circle.  Start with a pattern, a social project, or even a simple minding party. Ask friends over once of twice a month to share in the fun and let it naturally evolve from there. Beginning and ending one project after another will establish a beautiful tradition in no time.

Sew on people!
-Katie

Textile Tuesdays Present: Batik

This Indonesian dying technique has been found in several other cultures in India, the Middle-East, Africa, and parts of Asia. Known for its hand-worked prints, this fabric depicts stories and expresses cultural art unique to its individual creators.

The majority of Batiks start with a plain weave cotton fabric and are made unique by using resistant dye methods.  Silk and rayon fabrics are also a commonly printed on. This method alternates the use of waxes and natural dyes to create all over patterns, directional patterns, single scenes and motifs. Patterns are applied via stencils, carved stamps, and hand painting making it very personal and specific to the artist and region.

Use this fabric to create a bold statement in a dress or an eclectic addition to your home with a Batik wall hanging, a set of throw pillows, or if you're up to the challenge a quilt.

-Katie

How do I decide on the right sewing machine?

Looking to invest in your first sewing machine? Or maybe you've been wanting to upgrade your old machine?

From personal experience and working with students of all skill levels, we have gathered quite a bit of information and recommendations concerning the purchase of a new machine and have prepared a checklist to guide you in your search.

Begin at the Beginning
Some personal questions to consider:
*What will you be using your new machine for? Home projects, garment construction, quilting, etc.?
*How often will you be using this machine? Occasionally for clothing repairs, every day to manufacture your ouwn clothing line
*Do you need to transport/move the machine often?
These questions will help you determine what machine functions you need to look for when reviewing the product details of the machines

Tried and True Brands
These names have been around for ages and still continue to produce quality products in varying price ranges.
Singer
Brother
Janome

Basic Machine Capabilities You Can't Live Without
Must have...
*Varying stitch functions including
   -Straight stitch with adjustable lengths
   -Zigzag stitch with adjustable widths and lengths
   -Blind Stitch for sewing trouser and skirt hems
*Free arm for sewing cuffs and sleeves
*Zipper foot for inserting zippers
*Buttonhole foot to guide you while sewing

Life is easier with...
*1-step buttonhole function (4-step buttonhole is okay, but a little more tricky to sew)
*Drop in bobbin
*Quick change presser feet or snap on presser feet
*Decorative or quilting stitches (fun, but not necessary)

Misconceptions
Price is not always an indicator of the machine's quality. Purchasing a high priced machine does not always mean it's the best one for you and your end use.

My suggestion... start off with the basics. As your skills develop and grow, you will get a better grasp of what you need from your machine and can reinvest in the purchase of a higher-functioning machine.

Computerized machines are not always best. They are push button friendly, but are quite a pain to fix especially of the electronic board decides to burn out.

My suggestion... the simpler, the better. The dials and switches of a basic machine are much easier to adjust and fix than an electronic board or touch screen panel that may burn out.

Let us know if you need help! Good luck shopping.

Bye.

Katie for SEW Moni